How food got fast
Think fast food and it’s likely a few world-beating burger brands spring to mind. Whether it’s drive-in, drive-thru or eat-in, they are today ubiquitous across the globe. But their hearts are in the USA, where McDonald’s, In-N-Out Burger and KFC took the brakes off cooking in the 1940s and 1950s, and changed the way we eat forever. Here’s how it happened…
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1940s: the rise of the diner
Ordering a burger and milkshake at a shiny, all-hours diner is a quintessential part of American life. They boomed in the USA as the country returned to prosperity after the Second World War and the age of the motorcar gave rise to the suburbs. However diners, and their iconic stainless-steel exteriors, lie in the first half of the century.
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1940s: the rise of the diner
The first diners were actually static rail dining cars or lunch wagons, which could be moved along to ply their trade in different locations, like a food truck today – but with seating. These gave way to cheap, quick-to-set-up prefabricated buildings. But these new mass-produced diners retained the classic wagon look. Some, like the Rosebud in Somerville, Massachusetts, built in 1941 by the Worcester Lunch Car Company, are still in business today.
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1940s: the rise of the diner
Most diners have retained that unique retro design, as it became part of the American cultural landscape. You know what you’re looking at and what to expect inside. You get good value, classic booths, table service and a simple menu of quick-cook American classics , such as hamburgers, fries, club sandwiches and, of course, endless coffee.
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1940s: the rise of the diner
The epitome of the American Dream, diners are usually small businesses that cater to all sections of society. No matter whether it’s feeding hungry families and shift workers, or being a haven for teens to meet up – all without judgement.
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1940s: burgers are in business – White Castle
But the diners’ crown was about to slip with the rise of even faster food – the burger chain. As McDonald’s dominates today, it might be a surprise to learn the firm wasn’t the first in the game. Many believe the first US fast food chain was White Castle. Born in 1921 in Wichita, Kansas, founders Walt A Anderson and Edgar Waldo ‘Billy’ Ingram set out to change the public’s perception of the quality of the meat industry.
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1940s: burgers are in business – White Castle
The idea of cleanliness was key. White Castle introduced open kitchens in its bright-white and stainless-steel restaurant, and staff wore spotless uniforms. Its restaurants still look like little white castles today and it’s still going strong with its Original Slider – which is square – named the most influential burger of all time. Oh, and it might have invented the takeout burger too.
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1940s: burgers are in business – McDonald’s Bar-B-Q
However, it would be two working-class brothers who would take the burger chain beyond the American Dream to conquer the globe. Richard and Maurice McDonald opened McDonald’s Bar-B-Q in San Bernardino, California in 1940. Like other drive-in restaurants, carhops delivered meat sandwiches and peanut butter and jelly sandwiches to customers’ cars. But then the brothers had a better idea. In 1948, they closed the restaurant and reinvented it with a simple nine-item menu.
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1940s: burgers are in business – speed was key
Their secret was speed. To get orders ready in ’30 seconds, not 30 minutes’, in 1948, Richard rebuilt their service area. He marked up a tennis court as their kitchen and made staff act out their jobs until he’d found the most efficient method.
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1940s: burgers are in business – Speedee
A mascot, a mini chef called Speedee, was raised aloft the newly redesigned restaurant. The natty little fellow and his quietly patriotic outfit was part of McDonald’s brand, along with the Golden Arches, until 1955.
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1947: drive-in becomes drive-thru
Just as McDonald’s was reinventing the burger business its own way, another fast food innovation was already underway: the drive-thru. The firstcomer’s prize goes to Red’s Giant Hamburg (yes, without the ‘er’ due to a mismeasured sign). Opened in 1947 in Springfield, Missouri, its owner Sheldon ‘Red’ Chaney got fed up with life as proprietor of a small gas station and decided to put his herd of beef cattle to better use. He opened a restaurant on the site of the gas station forecourt and sold hamburgers to busy travelers passing through.
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1948: drive-in becomes drive-thru – In-N-Out Burger
The very next year, the same concept would start a chain: the snappily named In-N-Out Burger, which was opened by Harry and Esther Snyder in the Los Angeles suburb of Baldwin Park, California. Wanting to serve the best burgers at his sparkly clean new burger stand, Harry would visit the meat and produce markets himself, and prepare the food by hand. Esther, meanwhile, did the accounts in their home around the corner. In-N-Out Burger is still a family business today.
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1948: drive-in becomes drive-thru – In-N-Out Burger
To fulfil his vision of letting customers order from inside their cars, Harry worked in his garage at night, after spending all day in the kitchen, to create his unique two-way speaker box, single-handedly upping the burger-chain game in 1948. A replica of In-N-Out Burger’s early speaker sign is pictured. Next time you drive up and speak into the little box, remember to salute good ol’ Harry.
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1950s: it’s not all about burgers – donuts
Burgers may be our first thought when it comes to fast food but the purveyors of other popular foods weren’t far behind the quick-cook revolution. Baked goods got a boost when the first Dunkin’ Donuts opened its doors in 1950 in Quincy, Massachusetts. The coffee company and quick-service restaurant has never looked back and now has more than 11,700 locations in 43 countries. The first-ever store is pictured here.
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1950s: it’s not all about burgers – tacos
Glen Bell first opened a hot dog stand, Bell’s Drive-In, in San Bernardino, California in 1948. But the canny operator watched lines at a Mexican restaurant across the road and wanted a piece of the action. He convinced the restaurant owners to let him see the recipe for their famous taco. He took what he had learned and opened a new stand under the name of Taco-Tia in late 1951 or early 1952, and launched taco takeout on the world.
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1960s: it’s not all about burgers – pizza
And we must not forget pizza. Soldiers stationed in Italy during the Second World War got a taste for it, so in search for speedy food on their return to New York, the city’s many Italian restaurants offered the first ordered-to-take-home pizzas. The home-delivery service would follow and, in 1960, Domino’s was born in Ypsilanti, Michigan (pictured) founded by brothers Tom and James Monaghan, who borrowed the investment money from their mom.
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1950s: the first franchise – KFC conquers
Little did Harland Sanders know that, when he started selling fried chicken at a filling station in Corbin, Kentucky (pictured) during the Great Depression of the 1930s, his business would become the second-largest restaurant chain in the world. He perfected his still-secret recipe of herbs and spices in 1940 and, thanks to his inspired conversion of one of the first commercial pressure cookers into a pressure fryer, slashed the time it took to cook the chicken.
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1950s: the first franchise – KFC conquers
As well as challenging the burger’s dominance as fast food king, the Colonel, as Sanders would style himself, was the first to see the potential of the franchise. In 1952 he sold his chicken recipe to Pete Harman of South Salt Lake, Utah, the operator of one of the largest restaurants in the city.
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1950s: the first franchise – KFC conquers
He would later travel across the US to market his chicken concept to restaurant owners, who would pay four cents to him for each chicken sold in exchange for the recipe, method and rights to his image in the now-legendary white suit with goatee beard. Pete Harman, the first franchisee, coined the phrases ‘Kentucky Fried Chicken’ and ‘It’s finger lickin’ good’, which are recognized across the world today.
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1970s and 1980s: doing it for the kids – McDonaldland
Children’s menus were established by many of the leading chains during the 1960s, with Ronald McDonald making his first appearance in adverts for McDonald’s in 1963. But the 1970s would see the marketing of visits to fast food restaurants, aimed at children and families, as fun excursions. McDonaldland and its cast of colorful characters – Hamburglar, Grimace, Mayor McCheese, Captain Crook and the Big Mac – made their first appearance in 1970.
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1970s and 1980s: doing it for the kids – the Happy Meal
The McDonald’s Happy Meal entered the fray in 1979. The combo meal for kids – which typically included a hamburger, cheeseburger or chicken McNuggets, with a side of fries, a child-friendly drink and a toy – came in a highly identifiable bright red box with McDonald’s super-smiley branding. And the kids are still loving it.
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1970s and 1980s: doing it for the kids – the Happy Meal
The packaging and toy are frequently part of a marketing tie-in to an existing television show, film or toy brand. In fact, in 2011 McDonald’s was said to be the world’s largest distributor of toys. But it was the concept of the Happy Meal itself that would become iconic. So much so, a whole restaurant would take its much-loved form. The children’s birthday party package was also born – and endures to this day – serving up exclusive invites, Happy Meals, fun, games and even a visit from Ronald.
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1980s and 1990s: the Burger Wars
Fast food got serious and silly at the same time during the 1980s and 1990s. A period of aggressive advertising campaigns and price slashing kicked off the Burger Wars. These campaigns included high-profile TV adverts and press marketing that used a tactic known as comparative marketing, that is, each chain comparing its product with its rival’s and declaring theirs the best. A bit cheeky.
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1980s and 1990s: the Burger Wars
Burger King kicked things off with a concerted effort to overtake McDonald’s that would end up coming at a huge cost to both businesses. In the early 1980s, Burger King set out to emphasize that its burgers were flame-broiled rather than fried like McDonald’s patties. What followed was some of the biggest rival ad campaigns seen to date, costing the companies tens of millions of dollars and denting their profits.
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1980s and 1990s: the Burger Wars
Founded in 1969 in Columbus, Ohio, Wendy’s focused on the Old Fashioned Hamburger. The company entered the melee in 1984, branding itself as the “fresh alternative” to its two biggest rivals and launching its hugely successful ‘Where’s the beef?’ campaign. The iconic TV advert, featuring old ladies literally looking for the beef in rival burgers, would see the then 81-year-old actress Clara Peller, pictured here in character for the campaign, become an instant cultural icon.
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1980s and 1990s: the Burger Wars
‘Where’s the beef” also entered the American lexicon as a catchphrase for questioning authenticity, and we still use it today. The campaign’s runaway success wasn’t just a cultural moment to be remembered, either (although there was spin-off merchandise and even a song ). Wendy’s, whose first store is pictured, sales jumped 31% to $945 million in 1985 worldwide, proving you should never doubt the power of a great catchphrase.
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1980s and 1990s: the Burger Wars
The rivalry also extended to some pretty cheeky on-site campaigns too, such as parking mobile advertising next to a rival’s store and signs poking fun at the next-door restaurant. And, it seems, troubled times for the fast food sector means the Burger Wars have been making a resurgence. Keep your eyes open for some hilarious fast food snark.
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1990s and 2000s: a new generation – Starbucks
Diners and burger chains may have served Baby Boomers well, but times were a-changing. In 1971, three young partners founded a coffee shop in Seattle’s Pike Place Market to serve this new generation’s needs – quality coffee and a social environment. It would take a stock market listing and another generational shift in the late 1990s and early 2000s for Starbucks to become a global phenomenon, but the coffee shop revolution had begun.
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1990s and 2000s: a new generation – Shake Shack
The American public’s love affair with fast food was as strong as ever, but the 2000s customer was starting to think seriously about their health. And none more so than the hip New Yorker. No wonder then the founding of Shake Shack in 2004, first as a hot dog cart in Madison Square Park before expanding to a kiosk in the same area, was a roaring success. Alongside its milkshakes, it served hamburgers and hot dogs that emphasized its use of natural, and hormone- and antibiotic-free Angus beef.
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1990s and 2000s: a new generation – Dog Haus
With health- and authenticity-conscious millennials now forming a large share of the market, American fast food underwent an artisan revolution. Gourmet hot dog chain Dog Haus, founded in Pasadena, California in 2010, is a prime example. Its founders wanted to ‘recapture the nostalgic childhood experience of eating a hot dog’ using fresh ingredients. Dog Haus is known for its generously dressed sausage dogs and signature all-beef hot dogs.
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2010s: move over meat – plant-based sushi arrives
The march of fresh, environmentally friendly and healthy food was already unstoppable but, as meat began to find itself in the firing line, plant-based food became a major player. Guy Vaknin founded plant-based sushi chain Beyond Sushi in 2012, in New York, with nothing short of phenomenal success. After an appearance on television’s Shark Tank , day-to-day sales exploded by 40%.
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2010s: move over meat – Bareburger
But the burger would not be left behind. The funky Bareburger chain was one of the first to start selling the Impossible Burger, a plant-based patty from Silicon Valley start-up Impossible Foods which ‘bleeds’ and sizzles when cooked, in 2017. The chain is an all-natural, organic burger outlet that sells beef and bison patties alongside quinoa, black bean and meat-free versions. What could be better than a yummy burger with a clear conscience?
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2010s: move over meat – Impossible Slider
The Original Slider may be the world’s most important burgers but innovators White Castle stayed ahead of the curve when it introduced the Impossible Slider in 2018. It’s already on the menu in all of its 420 restaurants. At just $1.99, the plant-based, protein-packed ‘hamburger’ offers an affordable way for steadfast meat-eating burger-lovers to cut down their environmental footprint.
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2010s: move over meat – Impossible Whopper
Of course, the major players weren’t far behind. The Impossible Whopper was introduced at Burger King in St Louis, Missouri at the start of 2019. It was a resounding success and is now available nationwide, along with the Impossible Croissan’wich , new for 2020. Burger King has also been quick to channel contemporary customers’ other concerns too. For example, it created a range of Unhappy Meals, promoting Mental Health Awareness Month. It seems nothing is impossible in the unstoppable fast food business.
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